Restaurant: Citrus at Social

All hail the triumphant return – in spirit, if not in personal presence – of Chef Michel Richard to Los Angeles.

That 2007 James Beard Outstanding Chef winner (for his Washington, D. C., eatery Michel Richard Citronelle) has joined forces with Social Hollywood owner Jeffrey Chodorow and Chef de Cuisine Omri Afalo to re-create Richard’s popular eatery Citrus, which rises from the ashes as Citrus at Social. Richard closed the original Citrus and left L. A. for D. C. in 1998. And while he will not be in the kitchen here, his spectacular signature style is apparent throughout, right down to his autograph on the back of every menu.

Transplanted Frenchman Richard has created a “Cali-French” menu filled with memorable combinations, all with a focus on using local market-fresh ingredients. Served in a modern setting filled with white, yellow, and green elements, the food at Citrus seems to match the décor – being both bright and inviting.

The bar at Citrus at Social.

Start with one of “Michel’s Favorite Bistro Classics,” like one of the onion tarts served with bacon and crème fraiche, a tasty tidbit that explodes on your palate. Then move on to one of the varied appetizers, ranging from Mussel Chowder to Beet & Tuna Salad (with its interesting mix of textures and flavors) to the stunningly executed Escargot in the Garden. That fantastic dish is like no snail dish you’ve ever eaten, with those little fellows enrobed in a nut crumble (pistachio, macadamia, pecans) with a parsley sauce. Pair it with a glass of buttery Meursault, and that course alone is worth the visit.

But don’t stop there, for the entrées are wonderful, too. We tried the monkfish, served with an Asian duck au jus and a perfectly prepared pinenut risotto, and the sea bass, with its yummy little “olives” of veggies (carrots and zucchini cut into olive shapes and gently cooked, then slathered in butter); both were exemplary. The Colorado lamb was also precisely cooked, just the right shade of pink, and offered with a spicy jalapeño sauce that balances wonderfully with the flavor of the meat.

Chef Michel Richard.

Desserts at Citrus at Social are top-notch as well, a nod to Michel Richard’s beginnings as a pastry chef. Our favorite was the Kit Kat Bar, a chocolate tuile served with a dense bitter chocolate noisette sauce. The crème brûlèe, sprinkled with seasonal fruits, is exemplary as well.

And the best part about those lingering last moments over dessert at Citrus at Social? Dreaming of the next time you’ll come in for another visit.

Citrus at Social
Social Hollywood
6525 Sunset Boulevard
Hollywood, CA 90028
323-337-9797
www.chinagrillmgt.com/social