Parties: New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival 2010 Diary

Is it possible to explain the magnificence of Jazzfest through words and photographs? Probably not, but so many of us experience so much joy every year at the event, it would be tragic to not share the adventure. The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (www.nojazzfest.com/) takes place every year over two weekends, always occurring the last weekend of April and the first weekend of May. It has been going on for 41 years, and in my opinion is the greatest collection of live music, food, culture, and joy that occurs in one place on planet earth.

Under normal circumstances, New Orleans is a hotbed of great music and food. During Jazzfest, as it is commonly known, everything is in overdrive. Fans from all over the world descend on the city and try to keep up with the music. The festival itself runs each day from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., then every night most of the musicians descend on the city’s myriad club scene, and restaurants extend their hours. And although the event is known as Jazzfest, make no mistake. This celebration is about all kinds of music, as invited bands play everything from jazz to rock, blues, funk, hip hop, zydeco, gospel, and even the occasional polka.

During those two glorious weekends, and the days in between, all of the clubs in town book amazing artists, with shows beginning at 10 p.m., then another at 2 a.m., and even the occasional 4 a.m. start (those go well past sunrise). It is definitely a marathon, not a sprint for those that participate. I have been going for 12 years, and experience new adventures each time, with an ever-changing “krewe” (NOLA-speak for crowd of friends) along for the fun.

Day One, Saturday, April 24, 2010; Arrival

I barely missed some horrendous wet weather as I arrived a bit late for the first weekend’s festivities, but the typical hot and sticky New Orleans conditions remained. After settling in at the Uptown home of Vicki Powell (who generously opens her place to our krewe every year), we headed out to a neighborhood joint called Joey K’s (www.joeyksrestaurant.com/). Known for traditional and modern versions of New Orleans cuisine, Joey K’s was an oasis of fried catfish, chicken, shrimp po-boys, great onion rings, sweet potato fries, and red beans and rice. We stayed well past their normal closing time and enjoyed a great meal. After dinner, we went to a quirky dive bar called Rivershack Tavern (www.therivershacktavern.com/) where an amazing cover band was doing spot-on versions of Stevie Ray Vaughan, the Beatles, and Grateful Dead tunes. I love bars without attitude, and Rivershack is about as laid back as any you will find. In addition to a reasonably priced full bar, they have a great selection of regional beers including the wonderful Abita Amber, Turbo Dog, and high octane AndyGator. After a few drinks and some good tunes, we called it a night.The casual and cool dive bar, Rivershack Tavern.Some of the great beers on tap at the Rivershack Tavern.

Day Two, Sunday, April 25, 2010; Jazzfest Day Three

I awoke Sunday anxious to get to the festival. The Fairgrounds, a mile-and-a-half oval horse racetrack that is the site for the event, was still muddy from the rain that had dumped on New Orleans over the previous days. Fortunately, the sun was shining on Sunday and the sky was cloudless. My travel plans had been built around getting to the Fest in time to see the Allman Brothers Band. I hadn’t seen Gregg Allman and the others in that legendary band for over 20 years, so I was really excited about them. But then there were all the other talented musicians on the day’s lineup. A major problem – or great opportunity depending on your perspective – is the glorious buffet of choices offered up at Jazzfest.

Both food and music are in abundance at extraordinary levels of excellence. The festival has 12 stages of music going virtually nonstop for eight hours each day. There are two main food courts (and a few additional pockets of culinary bliss scattered about) filled with gourmet regional cuisine.A view of the crowd at one of the amazing food courts at Jazzfest.

Amazing artists are often performing at different stages at the same time. Unless you have perfected a personal cloning device, choices have to be made. I tend to favor rock, blues, funk, and modern jazz, so my choices lean heavily in those directions. New Orleans always has an abundance of great horn players, blues musicians, and funk bands. During Jazzfest, all of the talented local artists are playing, and multitudes of great musicians from around the world come to perform at the festival.

This year’s lineup was particularly saturated with world-class guitarists, and guitar-centric bands. I knew I would have to make some tough choices, but one of the beautiful things about Jazzfest is that if you wander away from one stage in search of food, drink, friends, or a bathroom, you are likely to happen upon some amazing music by a group you have never heard of before. The same is true for the food. Everything is delicious, so if you see something that you’ve never had before, you’ll taste it and probably have a new favorite. There really are no bad choices.Tab Benoit and Cyril Neville during the Voice Of The Wetlands Allstars set at Jazzfest.

I planted myself at the Acura Stage, the spot considered the main stage, with the biggest name acts scheduled to perform there. I arrived in time to see Louisiana LeRoux with Tab Benoit (www.laleroux.com/), a southern rock/New Orleans funk/classic rock/power ballad band with excellent harmonies and tight musicianship. Tab Benoit stayed on stage for the next act, Voice of the Wetlands Allstars (www.voiceofthewetlands.org/), a collection of regional musicians that play some fabulous, funky music, and raise awareness about the depletion of the wetlands.Dr. John with the Voice Of The Wetlands Allstars at Jazzfest.

Benoit, an incredible blues guitarist and singer leads the group, supported by Dr. John, Cyril Neville, Anders Osborne, George Porter Jr., Johnny Sansone, and Johnny Vidacovich. Next up was The Levon Helm Band (www.levonhelm.com/), guided by the legendary drummer from the Band. Helm, who has recovered from throat cancer, led a talented group of musicians through some new material and Band classics like “The Weight,” and “Up on Cripple Creek.” Guest performers during that set included Dr. John, Allan Toussaint, Ivan Neville, and Stanton Moore.Levon Helm at Jazzfest.

[Fest Food highlight: jambalaya]Greg Allman leads the Legendary Allman Brothers Band at Jazzfest.

Closing the day’s performances was the Allman Brothers Band (www.allmanbrothersband.com/). I am a rabid guitar junkie, so getting to see this band live was a major thrill. They put on a fabulous show. Gregg Allman sounded better than he has in years. The double-guitar onslaught offered by Warren Haynes and Derek Trucks was powerful and brilliant. They played a great two-hour set that included many of their classic tunes including “Midnight Rider,” “Statesboro Blues,” “Whipping Post,” and “One Way Out.” I left the Fairgrounds buzzing with great music in my head, a little muddy, a little sunburned, and a little tired; but the day was far from over.Warren Haynes and Derek Trucks lead the double guitar assault for the Allman Brothers Band at Jazzfest.

In past years, my krewe was always determined to go to some of the top-notch, fancy restaurants in New Orleans. We had some amazing meals along the way, but eventually discovered that it is not necessary to go high end in NOLA. With some good planning, and guidance from local friends, there is no such thing as a bad meal in this town – it will always be good, and often fantastic, no matter where you eat, whether it is a fancy white-linen tablecloth establishment, or a counter-and-picnic-table joint. One deciding factor in choosing to go casual is that during Jazzfest you end each day dirty, sweaty, and tired. If you’re willing to stay grubby all evening, then it is an unnecessary chore to get dressed up and rush to fancy dinner reservations. It’s often simpler to just keep moving, heading directly to one of the countless good, casual places around town that take walk-ins. It also makes it easier to go straight to the late-night club shows.

On this night we chose one of our favorite dive hangouts, Cooter Brown’s (www.cooterbrowns.com/), an uptown sports bar with an abundant beer list, a raw oyster bar, and a variety of New Orleans grilled specialties. The raw oysters were big, cold, and delicious. The po-boys were both classic and inventive, and the family-style tables inspired conversations with new friends. We left the joint stuffed and ready for some more music. Next on the journey was Tipitina’s (www.tipitinas.com/), one of the most famous nightclubs in town. On the bill was John Cleary, the British-born New Orleans resident, who is considered one of the world’s “piano professors.” Cleary, who has toured and played with Bonnie Raitt, crooned a set of soulful songs for an appreciative audience. We knew it would be a long week, so we left before the Dirty Dozen Brass Band took the stage. Better to get some rest – we would need it.John Cleary on keyboards and vocals at Tipitina's during Jazzfest.

Day Three, Monday, April 26, 2010; Instruments A Comin’ Fundraiser

The days between Jazzfest weekends are less hectic. You get a chance to experience the southern charm of New Orleans, yet still have a multitude of choices in the evening. We knew well in advance what we would be doing this night, because Tipitina’s was hosting their annual fundraiser known as Instruments A Comin’. The event raises money for the Tipitina’s Foundation (http://tipitinasfoundation.org/) that, among other good things, donates musical instruments to area children. The festivities began outside the Uptown club in the afternoon, with marching bands performing in the street, a silent-auction tent, and crafts booths set up on the grassy area that divides Napoleon Avenue. Next up was Tipitina’s annual walk of fame induction ceremony, this year honoring Harry Connick, Jr., Rockin’ Dopsie, Jr., and Harry Shearer.Harry Shearer being inducted into the Tipitina's Walk Of Fame during the Instruments A Comin' 2010 charity event.

Inside the club, the bands started performing at about 7:30 p.m. and continued until 3 a.m. It was a star-studded lineup of great music, beginning with the TIP Interns with Donald Harrison and followed by a who’s who of New Orleans’ best: Galactic, Soul Rebels, Fred LeBlanc (of Cowboy Mouth), Papa Mali with Monk Boudreaux, BIGI (Russell Batiste, Ivan Neville, George Porter, Jr., and Ian Neville), Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, Big Sam’s Funky Nation, and Nigel Hall with Eric Krasno and Adam Deitch. On top of the amazing music, VIP guests enjoyed a gourmet buffet provided by several area restaurants, and an open bar. The event was really special – all of the great things about Jazzfest concentrated into one night, raising cash for an important cause.The Soul Rebels at Tipitina's for the Instruments A Comin' 2010 charity event.Papa Mali and Monk Bourdreaux at Tipitina's for the Instruments A Comin' charity event.Big Sam Williams at Tipitina's for the Instruments A Comin' charity event.

Day Four, Tuesday, April 27, 2010; R & R and Coconut Beach Volleyball

After the long night of partying at Tip’s, we needed some serious R & R. We spent the day catching up on emails, cataloging photos, and soaking up some New Orleans sunshine. That night, Vicki was playing in a volleyball league at Coconut Beach Volleyball Club (www.coconutbeachnola.com/), a great sand facility on the north shore. We played some games, saw a beautiful sunset, ate and drank at the on-site bar, and enjoyed a fun evening.

Day Five, Wednesday, April 28, 2010; Lafayette Square Free Concert Series

The weather continued to be beautiful – sunny, mid 80s, with a mild breeze. I took advantage by playing tennis at Audubon Park in the Uptown neighborhood. They have nicely maintained clay courts with a pro shop. After working up a good sweat, hunger set in and my hitting partner, Craig Christopher, suggested Domilise’s for po-boys. This corner shack looks like it should be condemned, but man! They made some amazing sandwiches. We had the fried oyster and catfish, which were delicious.

Later in the day we headed out to Lafayette Square for a free concert. The city does a series of shows (www.wednesdayatthesquare.com/) every Wednesday at the park throughout the spring and summer. For the past few years, the Wednesday concert that falls between Jazzfest weekends has featured Marcia Ball (www.marciaball.com/), a great singer and pianist who plays soul, blues, and rock songs. We met up with some other friends at the park and enjoyed the concert along with a sampling of foods from local restaurants serving from booths around the perimeter of the park.Some of my party krewe enjoying the evening concert at Lafayette Square.

After a few hours of drinking, schmoozing, and good music, we left the park and headed to Drago’s (www.dragosrestaurant.com/) in the Hilton Hotel, not far from the French Quarter. Drago’s is famous for their charbroiled oysters, a dish I had never tried, in spite of my love for all things oyster. Their specialty lived up to the hype. The oysters are shucked, covered with a mixture of butter, Parmesan, Romano, salt, pepper, garlic, and parsley. They are then grilled to perfection. We also enjoyed their seafood gumbo, BBQ shrimp, and a variety of cocktails.

Day Six, Thursday, April 29, 2010; Jazzfest, Day FourIvan Neville with his band Dumpstaphunk at Jazzfest.

The Fest always begins its second weekend on Thursday. It is usually a great day to go because crowds are lighter, it is easy to set up chairs near the stages, and roaming around the fairgrounds is less congested. Once again I set up camp at the Acura Stage for a long day of funk, rock, and jambands. The first group, Kirk Joseph’s Backyard Groove, played some funky, horn-based tunes. Joseph was a founding member of the Dirty Dozen Brass Band and his sousaphone playing has set the standard in NOLA for years. Next up was Ivan Neville’s Dumpstaphunk (www.dumpstaphunk.com/). Neville sings and plays the Hammond B3 organ with a passion reminiscent of his father Aaron, and his uncle Art. Dumpstaphunk really packs a wallop on the low end with two bass players, Tony Hall and Nick Daniels. Cousin Ian Neville plays guitar, and inherited the family’s funk gene as well.Ian Neville and Raymond Weber with Dumpstaphunk at Jazzfest.

The next band was Gov’t Mule (www.mule.net/), one of my guitar-hero favorites. Warren Haynes, who has been one of the two guitarists in the Allman Brothers for the past 20 years, leads this side project that has been around since 1995. Their music is straight-ahead rock, with heavy influences from southern rock, blues, and 70s-era hard rock. Haynes is supported by Jorgen Carlsson on bass, Danny Louis on keyboards and guitar, and Matt Abts on drums. Haynes played some amazing solos, and the band gave a tight performance that featured both new and old material. They closed the show with “Thorazine Shuffle” and “Soulshine” to raucous applause.Warren Haynes ripping a guitar solo with Govt Mule at Jazzfest.Warren Haynes, Jorgen Carlsson, and Danny Louis with Govt Mule at Jazzfest.

The closing act on the main stage was Widespread Panic (www.widespreadpanic.com.) For the uninitiated, WSP get mischaracterized in the amorphous jamband stereotype. After having seen them a few times, I am a true believer. These guys rock hard with a combination of well constructed songs, tight arrangements, and some excellent musicianship. On top of that, they are big supporters of New Orleans, actively taking part in rebuilding area homes post-Katrina. They were joined onstage by John Keane on pedal steel guitar for much of their 2.5-hour set. About an hour into the show, the Megablasters, a horn section from Athens, Georgia, came onstage and really complemented the music. John Bell on guitar and vocals, along with Jimmy Herring on lead guitar, Jo Jo Herman on keyboards, and Dave Schools on bass really gave a solid performance.Jimmy Herring and John Bell with Widespread Panic at Jazzfest.John Bell and Dave Schools with Widespread Panic at Jazzfest.

[Fest Food highlights: cochon du lait po-boy, crawfish po-boy]The magical Cochon Du Lait Po Boy at Jazzfest.

That night we headed back to the beloved Tipitina’s for a North Mississippi Allstars concert. We needed to fuel up first, and I suggested a funky little restaurant near Tip’s called Ignatius. It was just like I remembered it – the décor is reminiscent of an old corner grocery, which the place once was. The menu reads like an “everything New Orleans” casual joint. The highlight was a meatloaf special made with boudin and pork sausage. As if that was not decadent enough, it was served with red potatoes in garlic butter and corn Macquechoux. Truly amazing! We also enjoyed their jambalayas, both traditional, and with red beans. The restaurant had temporarily lost its beer and wine license, so a little creativity was called for. Noticing a blackboard sign that listed beers sold to-go only, I walked up to the counter, and ordered an Abita Amber “to-go” from our cute and rule-breaking waitress. She let me surreptitiously borrow a bottle opener, which I took outside, and promptly poured my purchase into a handy go-cup. Later, while back at the table enjoying my beer, the waitress came by, picked up the bottle opener, and said, “Gee, how did this get here?” Only in New Orleans.Luther and Cody Dickinson with the North Mississippi Allstars at Tipitina's.

After our satisfying meal, we headed to Tip’s for the concert. The North Mississippi Allstars (www.nmallstars.com/) are a southern rock band with heavy blues influences. Led by brothers Luther and Cody Dickinson, the band tore through a long set of original tunes and some classic blues numbers. There were guest appearances by Roosevelt “The Doctor” Collier on pedal steel guitar, Al Gamble on organ, and “Big Sam” Williams on trumpet. One highlight of the show was Cody, who usually plays drums, playing a washboard. He used steel finger picks and a guitar-effects pedal that made the instrument sound like a synthesizer. Luther also played some blazing guitar solos, and coming off a long tour as a member of the Black Crowes, really seemed to enjoy his time back with his original group. The show ended at about midnight, so according to our typical Jazzfest schedule, we had to keep partying. Our lovely host, Vicki, was celebrating her birthday, and wanted to hit One Eyed Jacks (http://oneeyedjacks.net/) in the French Quarter for their weekly 80s night. We spent the wee hours of the night dancing, drinking, and people watching.Luther Dickinson with "The Doctor" and Chris Chew at the North Mississippi Allstars show at Tipitina's.

Day Seven, Friday, April 30, 2010; Jazzfest Day Five

It was another nice, sunny day on Friday. The crowd at the fairgrounds looked larger than Thursday, and excitement seemed to fill the air. I was anxious to soak up some blues music because the lineup featured some heavy hitters. One of the few bad decisions that the festival organizers have made in recent years was to move the Blues stage from an open outside space into a tent. Although it is large, the tent, with fixed seating, does not fit well with a blues music vibe. Dancing and moving around are difficult, and the entrances/exits get very congested. In addition, once chairs are taken, people protect them as if they were the last seats on the Titanic life rafts.Eric Lindell in the Blues Tent during Jazzfest.

For the first couple of shows in the tent, I was luckily able to get decent seats. First up was Eric Lindell (www.ericlindell.com/), a singer and guitarist with a great band that plays classic blues with rock and R & B leanings. After Lindell, John Mooney & Bluesiana (www.johnmooneylive.com) took the stage. Mooney is a classic delta blues guitar slinger and his set really got the crowd excited. During the set break I moved over to the Jazz tent to catch some of John Boutte’s (www.johnboutte.com/) show. His soulful jazz vocals filled the tent with hypnotic sounds. Supported by a solid band and large group of backup singers, Boutte ran through some gospel-inspired numbers and songs that paid tribute to his beloved New Orleans.Henry Butler and Leo Nocentelli with the New Orleans Social Club supergroup during Jazzfest.

After Boutte’s set, I rushed back to the Blues tent for the much-anticipated New Orleans Social Club (www.myspace.com/nolassocialclub) show. This supergroup rarely gets to play together due to obligations with their respective bands, but when they do, it is very special. The lineup of Henry Butler on piano and vocals, Leo Nocentelli on guitar, George Porter, Jr., on bass, Raymond Weber on drums, and Ivan Neville on organ and vocals is truly a collection of New Orleans musical royalty. Their hour-long set was a brilliant demonstration of classic funk, rock, and traditional New Orleans music.George Porter Jr. with the New Orleans Social Club at Jazzfest.

Closing the day at the Blues stage was a newly formed band with very well known members. The Derek Trucks & Susan Tedeschi Band (www.derektrucks.com/, www.susantedeschi.com/) was recently put together by Trucks and Tedeschi, a married couple who have played and toured separately over the past several years. Trucks has been the slide guitar master with the Allman Brothers Band since 1999. Tedeschi is a Grammy-winning singer and blues guitarist with her own band since 1994. The couple recently decided to combine bands and tour together. Their set was an exhilarating combination of Tedeschi’s soulful vocals, Truck’s blistering guitar solos, and the contributions of their stellar bandmates. Kofi Burbridge on keyboards and his brother Oteil on bass extended the family affair. Kofi was previously part of the Derek Trucks band, and Oteil also plays with the Allman Brothers Band. It was an amazing day of music!Married couple Susan Tedeschi and Derek Trucks make some beautiful music at Jazzfest.Susan Tedeschi, Derek Trucks, and Oteil Burbridge bring their bluesy soul to Jazzfest.
[Fest Food highlights: Cajun duck po-boy, fried catfish filet po-boy]

That night we went to Tipitina’s French Quarter location for a Tab Benoit (www.tabbenoit.com/) and Friends concert. Benoit always delivers a smoking blues show, and his friends are usually other great musicians from Louisiana. On this night Charles Neville played saxophone, Chubby Carrier brought his accordion, and Benoit’s other friends played some great tunes for an enthusiastic crowd. The show ended at about 12:30 a.m., which was much too early to call it quits. Of course, with other shows going on all over town, we knew we would find something great. We decided to recharge back at the house and pick up our other friends.Tab Benoit and Charles Neville at Tipitina's Uptown during Jazzfest.

After an unexpected delay that involved a passed out stranger in a car blocking the driveway, and a half dozen or so of New Orleans’ finest, we decided to head over to Tips Uptown for the Greyboy Allstars set that was scheduled to start at 2 a.m. The Greyboy Allstars (www.greyboyallstars.com/) are a San Diego based funk/acid jazz group created in the early 1990s by Karl Denson and DJ Greyboy. Their late night Jazzfest shows have become legendary, and this was no exception. We danced the night away, and after a while, left Tips at about 5 a.m., with the band still playing for some diehard, artificially energized fans.Karl Denson blows his horn with the Greyboy Allstars at Tipitina's during a late Night show.

Day Eight, Saturday, May 1, 2010; Jazzfest, Day Six

Due to Friday night’s foray that dragged deeply into Saturday morning, we got a late Jazzfest start on Saturday. The second Saturday at the Fairgrounds is usually the most crowded, and often features the biggest name acts. The sky looked ominous all day, and the forecasters had predicted thunderstorms, but the weather held – no rain. That really helped keep the crowd to a manageable size. Since choosing between great artists is so difficult, I opted to move around and try to catch as many acts as possible. I started in the Blues tent by seeing Johnny Sansone (www.johnnysansone.com/), one of Tab Benoit’s frequent collaborators. Jumpin’ Johnny Sansone & the XL Band play blues, zydeco and Cajun music. Sansone sang, and played harmonica and accordion. The set was great, but I had to move on to catch Anders Osborne (www.andersosborne.com/) at the Acura stage. Osborne, a great guitarist and singer, has been on fire lately, so I knew his set would be memorable. He was joined onstage by Stanton Moore on drums, Robert Walter on organ, Skerik on saxophone, and Pepper Keenan on guitar – a fantastic group of musicians that really rocked. Osborne played some of his new tunes from his recently released album “American Patchwork,” and his dynamic guitar work got the crowd dancing.Robert Walter, Skerik, and Anders Osborne during Jazzfest.

After the set ended, I headed to the food courts and met up with some friends at the Jazz & Heritage Stage where the White Cloud Hunters Mardi Gras Indians were doing their thing. No Jazzfest is complete without experiencing a Mardi Gras Indians show. The music takes cues from blues, funk, rock, African rhythm, and several other genres. One thing that makes the shows so special is the elaborate costumes worn by the musicians. The White Cloud Hunters consisted of what seemed to be two or three generations of friends and family, fully costumed, that were grooving on traditional Mardi Gras Indian music. The outfits were beautiful and the sounds contagious. Once the show ended, we headed back to the Acura Stage to catch the end of Galactic’s set. The White Cloud Hunters Mardi Gras Indian Band at Jazzfest.

By now, the crowd near the Acura Stage had become pretty overwhelming. We had to hold hands and weave our way through the throngs in order to get to a decent viewing area. On stage, Galactic (www.galacticfunk.com/) was pumping out their usual hardcore funk with the help of guests Irma Thomas, Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews, Cyril Neville, and Corey Henry. As always, Stanton Moore pounded out a machine-gun-like back beat on the drums, and Ben Ellman’s saxophone work, accompanied by Shorty and Henry’s horns, provided a wall of funkified sound. Much as I would like to think the huge crowd was there for Galactic, I knew many of them were there for the next act, Pearl Jam (http://pearljam.com/.) It was their first ever appearance at Jazzfest, and Eddie Vedder’s band made it quite memorable. Their show was simulcast live to U.S. troops in Iraq and Afghanistan. In addition, a live feed had been set up between Louisiana National Guardsmen in the 256th Infantry Brigade Combat team in Iraq, and some of their family members in attendance at the festival. The Pearl Jam show was a mix of new songs from their latest release “Backspacer,” and some of their big hits like “Given to Fly,” “Even Flow,” and “Better Man.”Stanton Moore with Galactic at Jazzfest.

[Fest Food Highlights: paneed chicken po-boy, fried oysters with fresh spinach, red onion, and blue cheese dressing]

That night we went to our friend Steve’s house, in Metairie, for a traditional crawfish boil. It was a great night of catching up with old friends and enjoying some awesome food. We devoured crawfish, corn, potatoes, BBQ chicken, salad, veggies, beer, wine, and assorted desserts. One of my new best friends, whom I met that night, was working on his nineteenth beer of the day, and insisted on teaching us the proper way to eat crawfish, as well as the proper pronunciation of his town – it’s “Metry,” by the way. After a few hours, the partying from Friday night, and the long, amazing day we had just experienced, made us hit the wall. We said our goodbyes, and called it a night.The crawfish boil - a messy and delicious New Orleans tradition.

Day Nine, Sunday, May 2, 2010; Jazzfest Day Seven

We awoke Sunday to the exotic smells of a Cajun breakfast. One of the house guests had put together an impromptu brunch. While omelets filled with gator sausage, shrimp and other exotic ingredients were being passed around, people started showing up with the fixings for mimosas, Bloody Marys, and assorted cocktails. I was midway through a mouthful of oatmeal when one of the party guests said he had a sack of oysters in his van and should probably shuck some. It was one of those occasions when time seems to stand still.

After a moment of reflection, I got up, trashed my oatmeal, and volunteered my assistance. We went outside where it was drizzling, dark and nasty. Since nobody was in any rush to get to the fairgrounds, it seemed like a great time to start shooting oysters and cocktails. Woody, a freelance chef, had an enormous cooler in his van filled with a sack of oysters, cocktail sauce, horse radish, lemons, and serving trays. He set up shop on the curb, sat on a bucket, and began shucking. It was kind of surreal, and definitely my kind of curbside party! My help turned out to be bringing trays full of oysters into the kitchen for the guests. Of course I took the time to sample the succulent beauties. The party was really hopping, and after omelets, and a few dozen oysters washed down with copious amounts of booze, we decided to hit the Fairgrounds in spite of the ominous weather.Trombone Shorty at Jazzfest.

The last day of Jazzfest always brings on a bout of melancholy. I can’t believe it’s almost over; I can’t believe I survived the marathon of music, food, and sleep deprivation; mostly, I hate to think about leaving this magical world and returning to reality. The dreary, wet weather didn’t help matters. We got to the Fairgrounds in the early afternoon, accompanied by a continuous drizzle that made everything, and everyone, a little soggy. We were determined to make the best of it, and going to the Gentilly Stage for the Trombone Shorty & Orleans Ave. (www.tromboneshorty.com/) show lifted everyone’s spirits. It does not matter how many times I see Shorty perform, I am always amazed at the talent and charisma on display. Shorty and his band got the crowd hopping, and with a guest appearance by rapper Mystical, transformed the wet audience into a bouncing, partying horde.Alison Mosshart with the Dead Weather in the rain at Jazzfest.

I had a tough decision to make after Shorty’s set. Should I see classic rock crooner Van Morrison (www.vanmorrison.com/) back at the Acura Stage, or the new modern rock heroes, the Dead Weather (www.thedeadweather.com), next up at Gentilly? Of course, each was at opposite ends of the Fairgrounds at the same time. I have seen Van Morrison in the past, and he always puts on a good show, but I really wanted to see the young guns. Since it was the last day, I decided to be crazy and try to do both. It required some serious trekking, but it was worth it. First, I went with my friends to the Acura Stage to check out the beginning of Van Morrison’s set. When “Brown Eyed Girl” concluded, I hoofed it back to the Gentilly Stage. The Dead Weather is Jack White’s latest project. He is joined by Alison Mosshart (the singer from the Kills) on vocals and guitar, Dean Fertita (of Queens of the Stone Age) on guitar and organ, and Jack Lawrence (of The Raconteurs) on bass. Their music is hard driving rock, and although only together about a year, they play like they have been a group for decades. Mosshart and White shared some passionate vocals, Fertita and White did a few blistering guitar solos, and Lawrence pounded out a heavy bass groove.Alison Mosshart and Jack White with the Dead Weather in the rain at Jazzfest.

Throughout the set, the rain continued at a moderate pace, but when the show ended, I really wanted to get some shelter, so I headed to the Grandstand. This sanctuary of air-conditioned art exhibits, real bathrooms, an oyster bar, and quaint courtyard stage was a genuine oasis. It seems that every time I venture over there, I discover a new band that goes onto my list of must-see acts for the future. This time was no different. While I dried off from the elements, I enjoyed the music of Los Po-Boy-Citos (www.myspace.com/lospoboycitos), a New Orleans-based latin/soul/funk band that sounded like a cross between War and Santana, but with a killer horn section.Luke Hudleston, Jack Pritchett, and Jacob Leland with Los Po-Boy Citos at Jazzfest.Camile Baudoin and Dave Malone with the Radiators at Jazzfest.

There were no surprises for the last show of Jazzfest. The Radiators always play the Gentilly Stage, and the Neville Brothers are at the Acura Stage. Other solid choices like B.B. King, Wayne Shorter, and Richie Havens could be found elsewhere, but for me, a traditional conclusion to the festival meant one of these two shows. This year, as I had been catching up on the Radiators back catalog, and having never seen one of their entire shows, I decided to stay for their set. Once again, the crummy weather had the beneficial effect of reducing the crowd size. I was able to get an ideal spot front and center. The Radiators (www.theradiators.org/) music is a combination of traditional New Orleans style with more mainstream rock and R&B influences. Their funky blend of swamp rock is called “fish-head music” and their rabid followers, known as “fishheads,” are reminiscent of the now nearly extinct deadheads. The five band members have stayed together for an almost unheard of 32 years. I enjoyed their great set surrounded by fishheads who danced, sang, and smiled throughout the rain soaked show. It was a great conclusion to my Jazzfest. As I met up with my friends heading for the exits, I felt both sadness and joy.The Radiators closing Jazzfest 2010.
[Fest Food highlights: cochon du lait po-boy, jambalaya]

That night we went to one of the classic destinations in town, Mid City Rock ‘n’ Bowl (www.rockandbowl.com/.) Now in a gorgeous new building, Rock ‘n’ Bowl, in operation since 1941, is an ingenious blend of live music, bar, and bowling alley that has become a popular destination for great musicians and fans. The night’s lineup included the Subdudes (www.subdudes.com/) and Tab Benoit. While the Subdudes performed, we bowled, drank, and had lots of laughs. Tab Benoit’s set sizzled, as usual. We met up with some other friends, and enjoyed the great show.

Day Ten, Monday, May 3, 2010; The NOLA Party Continues

Jazzfest may end on Sunday, but New Orleans’ party mentality never ends. We spent most of Monday recovering from the long weekend, but that evening, refueled with some cocktails, we headed out for food and live music. Although not known as a great BBQ town, New Orleans has several joints that try to duplicate the southern BBQ vibe. A relatively new one, Squeal BBQ (www.squeal-nola.com/) on Oak St. got some good reviews, so we decided to give it a try. Their big, meaty, dry-rub ribs, pulled pork, chicken, cole slaw, and beans were all excellent. They do their own smoking, and use a uniquely New Orleans style of slow cooking. It combines the best of the Carolinas, Tennessee, Texas, and all the other BBQ masters. The place has a casual vibe, and the owners are brothers who definitely make everyone welcome.John Gros with Papa Grows Funk at the Maple Leaf Bar.

Squeal’s Oak Street location made it an easy walk to one of the well-known clubs in town, the Maple Leaf Bar (http://mapleleafbar.com/.) Mondays at the Maple Leaf is always a party with longtime regulars, Papa Grows Funk (www.papagrowsfunk.com/), delivering the goods. The Maple Leaf falls into the dive-bar category, but with great live music, a nice backyard courtyard, and a casual neighborhood atmosphere. John Gros, a master of the Hammond B3 organ, started Papa Grows Funk in 2001 with some well respected New Orleans funk masters. Since it was the night after Jazzfest ended, we knew there would be some great guest appearances, and we were not disappointed. Half of the Rebirth Brass Band (www.rebirthbrassband.com/) showed up, and blasted their horns alongside PGF’s saxophonist Jason Mingledorff throughout the show. Additional guest horn players stopped in, blew amazing solos, and disappeared into the night. It was a typical night show during Jazzfest – anyone can show up and blow the roof off the building. We ran into friends we have known for years, and new ones we had made this trip. We lasted until about 2 a.m. when our collective gas tanks hit empty. It was the end of another thrilling Jazzfest adventure. Our flights home the next day were sad, but loaded with new tunes for the iPods and fond memories of the great journey, we left the magic of Jazzfest in New Orleans until next year.Papa Grows Funk with the guest horn section at The Maple Leaf Bar.

[Andy J. Gordon, a Los Angeles-based marketing and strategy consultant, made his writing debut in “Brentwood” magazine in 2007. His interests include music, sports, consumer electronics, premium libations, fine dining, travel, fast cars, and enjoying life.]