PERFECT PALAU: An Adventure Traveler’s Paradise

If you’re a fan of the reality television series “Survivor,” you just may know where the island paradise called Palau is located. And if you’re a scuba diver, you have certainly heard of this legendary underwater destination. If neither one, picture this: fly from Los Angeles to Honolulu, then continue across the Pacific to Guam. Turn left and head southwest (flying for two more hours) and you’ll end up in warm and wonderful Palau, at 7 degrees north of the equator.

Yes, it seems like a long way to go (and Continental Airlines is the only carrier that will get you there from the United States), but once you’ve made the journey, the destination is everything an adventure traveler could want, all in a spectacular (and always warm) tropical setting.

Palau is made up of a string of islands, with the famous Rock Islands being the main draw. They are a huge group of lushly vegetated, mostly uninhabited limestone formations, some with beautiful crescents of sandy beach, others with amazing coral reef formations just off their oddly shaped shores. Among the Rock Islands, every cliché you’ve ever heard about blue water is completely true, as the crystal-clear Pacific Ocean undulates in hues of turquoise, azure, cobalt, ultramarine, cyan – if you can name the color, you’ll see it here.

Fantasy Island, one of Palau's many deserted islands to explore.

Adventurers can choose to really rough it by camping out on one of the remote Rock Islands, but most choose to make their home base in Koror, Palau’s biggest city, situated in the middle of that long string of islands that make up the country. To experience Palau’s top-notch accommodation, choose the very modern Palau Pacific Resort, which features a beautiful beach, swimming pool, hot tubs, pretty and comfortable rooms, and the Elilal Mandara Spa, where luxurious treatments await after a day of athletic escapades. With added amenities like wireless Internet, dive shop, and tennis courts, the Palau Pacific Resort is definitely the best that Palau has to offer when it comes to comfort and service (www.palauppr.com/palau-private-beach-resort-,about-en.html).

Other smaller, picturesque hotels include the Carolines Resort (www.carolinesresort.com/), with private bungalows tucked into the tropical forest; the Cliffside Hotel, that boasts sweeping views of the city and ocean beyond, and an excellent aerie restaurant that serves up local seafood and international delights (www.cliffsidehotelpalau.com/); and the downtown Penthouse (www.penthousepalau.com/), where locals (often including Palau’s president and his cabinet) are often found eating fruit bat, one of the island’s local delicacies – try it, but only if you have a strong nose, for it really has a pungent smell! Tastes like chicken, of course.

The author, diving with a nautilus in Palau.

Scuba diving is king in Palau, where protected waters offer up some of the most amazing undersea moments that can be found on the planet. Consistently ranked as one of the top five diving destinations in the world – and often cited as number one by many experts, and so far, the best I have ever experienced – the warm, clear waters are a divers dream. It is worth the trip just to experience Blue Corner, the legendary spot where an assortment of sharks (lemon, black tip, white tip, reef, nurse) converge, along with barracuda, turtles, Napoleon Wrasse the size of a VW beetle, giant Moray eels, octopus – you name it, it passes through this special confluence of current and conditions.

And Blue Corner is just one of the highlights of Palau’s ocean wonders. There are coral walls – Palau boasts over 700 species of coral, from soft fans to brilliantly hued hard brain coral – that seem to disappear far into the deep; underwater caves to explore; giant clam gardens; and spots where huge, friendly Manta rays roam in search of a plankton dinner. With more than 1,300 species of fish, this is a place where every time you take a breath and turn your head, something wonderful is looking back at you.
Kayaking in the Rock Islands.
There are numerous companies that offer dive/snorkel/kayak/deep-sea fishing excursions, many of whom offer complete packages including airport transfers, hotel, and adventures. Our favorite is Sam’s Tours, a friendly, relaxed waterfront spot run by Sam Scott (www.samstours.com/). You can do day or night dives to sites all across those blue waters, on small boats with experienced dive masters; take underwater photography lessons from renowned pro Kevin Davidson (www.kd-photo.com) while on those dives; and even, as we did, take an unforgettable dive with the elusive nautilus, who lives at depths of 1000 feet. Lured into a cage loaded with dead chickens, the nautilus are brought to the surface, viewed by divers at about 90 feet of water, and then re-lowered to the deep, where surface predators like red snapper and grouper do not venture.

Another awesome adventure on Palau is going kayaking and snorkeling through the shallows around the stunning Rock Islands and into their uniquely formed marine lakes. With passionate marine biologist Ron Leidich as your guide (book him through Sam’s Tours/Planet Blue Sea Kayak) you’ll learn all about the flora and fauna and rock formations; his enthusiasm for the place is infectious, and he’ll make you see his world in a whole different way. You might just encounter a giant dugong swimming in the mangroves; that’s a sight you’ll never forget! Snorkelers will also find much to see from the ocean’s surface, especially at sites like the Big Drop-Off Wall, where skimming across the top of the wall is almost as rewarding as diving 100 feet below it.

Then there’s the world-famous Jellyfish Lake, a secluded saltwater lake that is the home of hundreds of non-stinging jellies. Hike up into the forest, peel down to your swimsuit, and jump in with them for the oddest feeling you’ve ever had, as you are literally covered with the slimy creatures. And if you love swimming with dolphins, don’t miss a visit to Dolphins Pacific, a large non-profit research facility devoted to the smiling mammals (www.dolphinspacific.com/). They offer numerous chances to frolic with the happy creatures in their huge outdoor facility in the midst of the Rock Islands.Jellyfish Lake.

More escapades can be had on land, too, from hiking to a gorgeous waterfall on the big island (and home of the newly christened, slightly wacky-looking capitol building) of Babeldaob; bird watching the more than 150 species living on the islands; or clambering around the World War Two ruins of the famous battle of Peleliu, one of Palau’s outermost islands, where the ocean ran red with the blood of Americans and Japanese soldiers. There are war wrecks to dive out there as well, and a small museum to visit, too.
Sam's Dive Shop.
Back in Koror after having a day packed with outdoor activities, there are several excellent restaurants to visit for dinner, including fine Indian fare at the Taj, more local (and delicious) fare at the Palm Bay Bistro, or the fresh catch at the casual Bottom Time Bar and Grill at Sam’s. There are also some local karaoke bars and nightclubs, but you’ll probably want to hit the sack pretty early most nights of your trip to rest up for the next big day, for missing out on the astonishing daytime adventures that Palau offers would be criminal.

To plan your trip, check out www.visit-palau.com, www.samstours.com, and www.palau-pcs.org.